Reinhold Messner – the greatest climber in the world


Reinhold Messner

No high mountain on earth has never been the foot of this 72-year-old Italian adventurer. Here are special things about him.

The first one to climb every mountain over 8,000 m

Earth has 14 peaks over 8,000 m high – known as the “dead zone”, including Everest, Manaslu, Cho Oyu, Annapurna … 30 years ago (October 16, 1986), at the age of 42, Reinhold Messner became the first one conquering all those heights.

Without oxygen tanks


Reinhold Messner

Reinhold has long been an adventurous climber without satellite phones, ropes, tents, and outside support. He said that exploring with support equipment is insulting and destructive.

By 1978, Reinhold and Peter Habeler became the first people to climb Mount Everest without oxygen tanks, despite the advice of dozens of doctors and experts that this was not possible.

First climbing when 5 years old

At an age that many other children were still afraid of the dark, Reinhold was trying out Northern Dolomites, like the 3,350 m high Geisler near Brixen – his hometown.

In addition to the age of 20, he and his younger brother Gunther became two of the best climbers in Europe. The most dangerous journey Reinhold took was Heiligkreuzkofel with a 600 m high cliff. At that time, Reinhold was 23 and Gunther was 21.

He said that he had to sleep in the protruding cliff. There was no place to attach the piton, but below was the abyss. Anyway, he had survived, but no one believed. For 10 years, People still think they were lying. Then someone came to the right place, saw the piton he left. It was the most adventure of his life.

Climbing Mount Everest alone

In 1980, Reinhold prepared everything and started his climbing journey and returned after 4 days. “Climbing to Mount Everest alone is the hardest challenge I’ve ever done,” he shared in an interview with The Guardian in 2003.

“I fell into a crack in one night, almost giving up. The only thing that kept me going was the dream of climbing Everest alone for two years. I was completely alone in the evening. “Children are afraid of the night. But actually even adults like me are scared.”

Never give up

The first mountain above 8,000 meters high that Reinhold climbed was Nanga Parbat in the Himalayas, in 1970. It was a painful success. Both the Reinhold and Gunther brothers reach the summit, but only Reinhold survives the climb. In 1971, he returned to this place to look for his brother’s body, but to no avail.